JCB Caviar Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blancs NV
£18.25
The wine
An exceptionally elegant Blanc de Blancs, with crisp citrus fruits married to toasted notes.
Blanc de Blancs is Chardonnay alone, which gives the leanest and longest-lived sparkling wine. Crémant de Bourgogne is made by the traditional method, with the second fermentation in bottle and long lees ageing, exactly as in Champagne, from Burgundian Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It is the most sensible sparkling wine bargain in France, made a hundred miles from Champagne with the same grapes and the same technique. JCB is the personal label of Jean-Charles Boisset, made in Burgundy alongside his family estates, with a house in the Russian River Valley too.
The producer
JCB by Jean-Charles Boisset
View all JCB by Jean-Charles Boisset winesJean-Charles Boisset was born into one of Burgundy's great winemaking families. With his sister Nathalie and their parents Jean-Claude and Claudine, he is proprietor of more than twenty estates across the world's pre-eminent wine regions, among them Jean-Claude Boisset and Château de Pierreux in Burgundy and De Loach in Sonoma.
The JCB label is his own, and it is deliberately unlike the family's estate wines. The bottlings are numbered rather than named, presented with a designer's eye, and drawn from both Burgundy and California, which reflects a career spent moving between the two. The approach has attracted comment, not all of it kind, but the wines are made seriously and the sourcing is genuine.
What connects the range is a preference for sites over labels. Boisset has been an early and consistent advocate of biodynamic farming across the family holdings, at a scale that made the argument harder to dismiss, and the winemaking favours gravity handling and restrained extraction. Whatever one makes of the presentation, the underlying philosophy is orthodox Burgundian: the vineyard decides, and the cellar tries not to get in the way.






