Dr Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett 2024
£22.25
The wine
Kabinett is the lightest of the Pru00e4dikat levels, made from grapes picked at normal ripeness, and it is the Mosel's greatest gift: at 8.5 per cent this has intensity of flavour that most wines cannot manage at twice the alcohol. Expect green apple, lime and slate with a touch of sweetness balanced by racing acidity.
Erdener Treppchen means the little staircase of Erden, after the stone steps cut into the slope so growers can work it. The vineyard is steep, south-facing and blue slate, and it is one of the great Mosel sites. Kabinett of this quality is among the most food-friendly wine made anywhere.
The producer
Dr Loosen
View all Dr Loosen winesThe Loosen family have owned this Mosel estate for over two hundred years, and Ernst Loosen took it over in 1988. What he inherited was unusually valuable: ungrafted vines up to a century old in some of the finest sites in Germany, on the precipitous slate slopes above the river.
He changed almost nothing in the vineyard and everything in the approach. Yields were cut drastically, picking became severely selective, and the winemaking was pared back to gentle handling and ambient yeasts in traditional oak casks. Within a few years the estate had become one of the most admired in Germany, and Loosen himself one of the most articulate advocates Riesling has ever had.
The Mosel is the coolest major wine region in Germany and its vineyards are among the steepest worked anywhere, some exceeding sixty degrees. Blue Devonian slate stores the day's heat and radiates it back at night, which is what allows Riesling to ripen this far north. The wines are famous for combining very low alcohol with intense flavour and a mineral, smoky character no other region reproduces.
