Sarah Marsh MW is one of the most respected English voices on Burgundy, a Master of Wine whose Burgundy Briefing has become required reading for serious collectors. She also makes wine, in tiny quantities, from carefully chosen parcels. These two Volnay Premiers Crus, En Chevret and Santenots from the celebrated 2018 vintage, reflect a palate trained on thousands of Burgundies and an unwillingness to compromise.