Cave de l'Ormarine is among the most successful cooperatives in the Languedoc, farming close to 4,500 acres, of which roughly 1,160 are planted to Picpoul Blanc. That single variety is the reason the cooperative matters. Picpoul is fresh, zippy and unmistakably of its place, and Ormarine has done as much as anyone to establish Picpoul de Pinet as a name worth knowing beyond the south of France.